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How to Build Cabins
Oh to be able to get away from it all. To my own private place, away from the crowds. A place of my own heart and design.
THIS year more and more American families will pile into their cars and take to the hills - or seashore - to seek refuge and blessed escape in their own little -or large-cozy retreat.
Sheer luxury, yes, but at prices, we have found, that are well within the reach of most of us.
We have run across many interesting people in the preparation of this site and the book that goes with it -in fact all the folks we've contacted were somehow relaxed and thoughtful types.
This, we discovered, was no coincidence.
These people had already tasted the rich, clear wine of freedom and pure air.
They had taken time out to live, and in living they had come alive.
Enjoy - D.T.
Continued in...
From How to Build 20 Cabins
Framing--the Backbone of your Log Cabin
Jack Hudson
1249
Framing--the Backbone of your Log Cabin
Framing is the structural skeleton of your house. The drawing at
the top indicates the important framing members of any of the
cottages. The most important elements are the sill, header,
joists, girders, sole, flooring, studs, plate, and rafters.
Let's take a look at these parts.
Except in the case of concrete slab construction, the sill is
the first wood member to rest on the foundations and will be the
first wood member you will put down. The sill is usually a
2-by-4-inch piece. In pier construction you will note that I
have occasionally used a 2-by-6-inch member. This is because the
header is made up of two pieces 2 inches thick, instead of one,
as shown in the illustration.
Sills form a bearing surface for the undersides of joists. They
should be bolted to the slab or wall foundations. If you are
using pier foundations, it is important that you first put down
the sill around the building, then spike the inner header to the
sill from the underside. After this is done, lay out the joists
and securely spike the inner header to them.
At the corners, stagger these two parts. Then spike the outer
header to the inner one, overlapping at the staggered corner
edge. What you have done is to build a girder with a resting
place for the joists.
Headers, except as noted above, are usually 2 inches thick and
the same width as the joists. They run around the outside
perimeter of the building and help keep the joists in a vertical
position. They also help to transmit the roof and wall loads to
the foundation.
The notched joist arrangement is used when no sill is provided.
The blocking provides a bearing spot for the joists. If you use
pier foundations, be sure to follow the sectional drawings for
each cottage, because this header may actually be a girder
around the outside of the building.
Also be sure that the joists are securely spiked to the header.
Try, as far as possible, to make the headers of one continuous
piece of material. If this isn't possible, be sure to join the
pieces over the center line of one of the piers.
Joists members are what your flooring will rest on. The sizes
applicable to each building are shown in the sectional and plan
drawings. In most cases they are 2-by-6-Inch members laid 16
inches on center. I have tried to design all the camps so that
it will not be necessary to cut most of the joists.
They are standard lengths which you can purchase from your local
lumberyard. Because the joint spans are short, it isn't
necessary to bridge the members. However, if you want a really
good job, put l-by-3-inch pieces of lumber between joists as
shown in the sketch at the side. You can also buy metal bridging
if you would rather use it.
Bridging is usually done every 8 feet along the length of the
joist. The floor joists are typically designed to take a uniform
load of 40 pounds. The fiber stress (f) is 900 or over. Don't
worry your head about these figures.
What it means to you is that you should use Douglas fir (Coast
Region or Inland Empire), West Coast hemlock, Western larch,
Southern yellow pine, redwood, oak, or any other wood having the
necessary characteristics. Most yards carry either Douglas fir
or hemlock for framing purposes.
About the AuthorAbout the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and
http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work
collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log
cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one
of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for
building a log home or choosing a house plan.
2c
http://www.aaarticles.com/article10522.html
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Cabins - Building Your Own Cabin
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The Hideout
POSSIBLY the simplest construction for a frame cabin is the board and batten type (or shiplap, as shown) because less framing is required, the upright boards carrying the load in place of studs.
The concrete slab floor also eliminates much carpenter work and lumber expense, and has the advantage of offering no refuge for rodents underneath.
Originally a single room, 16x22 ft., with front porch and open carport in back, two corners of the cabin were partitioned off with plywood for bath and kitchen, respectively.
The second year the carport was floored and enclosed for a bedroom; a second bedroom was extended from the front porch the third year. A back porch, screened in. had been built on earlier.
To save yourself the labor of grading, select a level site and drive stakes at the four corners, then set up batter boards two feet from them, to which chalk lines are to be tied. The intersections of these should be directly above the stakes, located by a plumb line.
Now excavate four inches on each side of the footingtobe. For a wood floor the footing shown will be substantial enough for this light cabin. Oil the form boards on the inside and they can be used later for flooring to be covered with linoleum.
Rent a concrete mixer. The mix should
Continued in...
From How to Build 20 Cabins
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Cabins...
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