How to Build Cabins

Oh to be able to get away from it all. To my own private place, away from the crowds. A place of my own heart and design.

Cabins Lodges...

THIS year more and more American families will pile into their cars and take to the hills - or seashore - to seek refuge and blessed escape in their own little -or large-cozy retreat.

Sheer luxury, yes, but at prices, we have found, that are well within the reach of most of us.

We have run across many interesting people in the preparation of this site and the book that goes with it -in fact all the folks we've contacted were somehow relaxed and thoughtful types.

This, we discovered, was no coincidence.

These people had already tasted the rich, clear wine of freedom and pure air.

They had taken time out to live, and in living they had come alive.

Enjoy - D.T.

Continued in...
From How to Build 20 Cabins

How to choose the foundation for your log cabin
Jack Hudson
1229 How to choose the foundation for your log cabin

Full foundation sounds easier to build than a slab. The only
catch is that you'll probably have to do a lot more digging.
This is especially true if you live in the northern part of our
country. A little north of New York City we usually extend our
foundations down 4 feet. You'll want to find out how far down
the wall and footings should go; the local building inspector or
mason can tell you.

With this information in mind, lay out the outlines of the
building as described above and start digging. The walls that
form your foundation will probably be built of 8-inch concrete
block. This wall should rest on a footing. The illustration at
the side shows one way such a footing can be made.

Like the beam described above, the dirt may be cut square and be
used as the form. The footing should be at least 6 inches thick
and project 2 or not more than 3 inches beyond the thickness of
the wall. This concrete footing is made of I part portland
cement, 3 parts sand, 5 parts coarse aggregate, or a transit mix
that will have a minimum compressive strength of 1,500 pounds
per square inch in 28 days.

If you are making the walls of block, the mortar you should use
is composed of I part portland cement, 3 parts sand by volume,
and lime not exceeding 25 per cent of the cement by volume.
Stagger the blocks so that the joints of the second row of
blocks fall over the mid-sections of the blocks below. Use
closed-end blocks for corners.

Moistening the blocks before laying them will help hold the
mortar. Pour concrete into the top row of blocks and insert
6-inch bolts, 8 feet on center, for the sill.

Piers are the type of construction you will probably use. It is
the quickest way to get your summer home under way. Most cottage
plans have a pier plan which you should follow. There are
several rules to remember about piers. They can be built of
block (8 by 8 by 16 inches) or of solid concrete. Piers require
foundation footings just as walls do.

Take the advice of the local building inspector on the depth
they should extend below grade. You'll want to have the footing
below the local frost line. The illustration at the side shows
the usual arrangement for the footings. Poured concrete piers
should be 10 by 10 inches if square or 12 inches in diameter if
round.

I have seen a posthole digger used to make the hole for a round
pier. It worked. The only trouble is that the center of the pier
is the used part and some portion of the pier will project
beyond the building line. The proper mix is the same as for
footings mentioned above. The maximum height above grade that
you should build a pier is four times its least dimension.

If the pier on the low side of your camp is 6 feet, the pier
size should be increased to 18 inches square. The forms for
solid concrete piers may be made from any old lumber. The
illustrations at the side should show you how.

Take your choice of these three ways to build your foundation.
Some may ask why I haven't mentioned wood post construction. I'm
not convinced that they are worth using except above grade. If
you must use wood, be sure that you get pressure-treated posts.
Dipped or painted ends are little protection.

About the Author

About the Author: Jack Hudson is a writer for
http://www.log-cabin-plans-n-kits.com and
http://www.best-house-n-home-plans.com/. These two sites work
collectively as a resouce for the planning and building of log
cabins as well as choosing from different house plans. Visit one
of these sites for informative articles as well as free TIPS for
building a log home or choosing a house plan.

2c
http://www.aaarticles.com/article10525.html

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Cabins - Building Your Own Cabin